Working at Centro Ristorante in Toronto was more than just a job—it quietly shaped the chef I would become. The seed was planted then, and it’s only now, some 25 years later, that it has begun sprouting.

Opening in the mid-1980s, Centro quickly earned its place as one of the best dining establishments in Toronto and, arguably, in North America. It wasn’t just renowned for the food or service—it was the people who made it exceptional. Centro was the kind of place where a young chef like me at the time could quickly grow & learn.

When I joined the kitchen team, the chef was none other than Marc Thuet, a culinary legend known for his intensity, and unrelenting pursuit of perfection. Alongside him was the sous chef, David Lee, a name that would later become synonymous with fine dining in Toronto. 

The Menu and the Atmosphere

Centro’s menu was a masterclass in Italian and French cuisine, interpreted through a contemporary lens. A few standout dishes included duck ravioli with truffle butter sauce (coming to our menu at Gems pretty soon :)), foie gras terrine and so many more I don't remember. The kitchen itself was the stuff of culinary dreams—and nightmares. It was loud, and meticulously clean, with every chef hyper-focused on their role. The intensity was palpable, something you might only expect to see in movies. Every night felt like a performance, and every plate that left the pass (final inspection station) was a work of art.

My Role

I worked six days a week, from noon to midnight, moving between stations as needed. My first assignment was as entremetier, handling vegetables, soups, and side dishes. From there, I rotated to the cold station, or "garde-manger," where I prepared salads, appetizers, and cold desserts. Eventually, I assisted with meat dishes, which required a delicate balance of timing and technique, there was no room for error.

It was grueling work, but the camaraderie among the kitchen staff and the sheer thrill of working in such a prestigious establishment made it worthwhile. Thuet and Lee managed the kitchen like an army—shouting commands, setting expectations, and always pushing for better. Mistakes were not just corrected; they were dissected and learned from. 

Celebrities at Centro

Centro’s reputation as a hotspot meant that it frequently hosted a who’s who of celebrities and influential figures. Actors like Arnold Schwarzenegger, musicians, and business moguls dined there, and the buzz of the dining room often made its way back to the kitchen.

Marc Thuet

Marc Thuet was more than a chef; I experienced him as a was a force of nature. Born in Alsace, France, Thuet trained in some of Europe’s most prestigious kitchens before bringing his talents to Canada. Working under him was intense, but it was also an education like no other.

Later on, Thuet became well-known for his TV show Conviction Kitchen, where he took on the challenge of running a restaurant with a team of ex-convicts looking for a fresh start. The show captured his fiery energy in the kitchen but also showed his big heart and belief in how hard work and good food can change lives.

He's also written a book "French Food My Way". You can find it here. 

David Lee

David Lee, the sous chef at Centro during my time there, went on to become one of Toronto’s most celebrated chefs. He later was the Executive Chef at Splendido, another iconic Toronto restaurant, before co-founding Planta, a groundbreaking chain of plant-based restaurants. It was no surprise.

David was perhaps an even bigger influence on me than Marc. He was the one who first interviewed me and gave me the job. He had this incredible balance—he was as kind as he was fierce.

The Impact on Gems Cafe & Bistro

My time at Centro was life-changing. It was an environment that demanded resilience, adaptability, and a relentless commitment to quality. The lessons I learned there—about food, teamwork, and perseverance—have stayed with me ever since.

While my definition of excellence precedes execution and has more to do with how one shows up—attitude, if you may—my time at Centro is part of my toolbox in what I bring to Gems Café & Bistro as the chef. 

Centro may no longer be a part of Toronto’s dining scene, but its legacy lives on in the chefs it shaped, the dishes it inspired, and the memories it created for everyone who stepped through its doors. To have been a part of that legacy, even for a brief time, is something I’ll always treasure.